The Art and Mystery of the Gentle Craft, an Essay on Boot and Shoe Making

Purchase of this book includes free trial access to www.million-books.com where you can read more than a million books for free. This is an OCR edition with typos. Excerpt from book: - AN ESSAY, The Method of Cutting a Man's Boot. IT is rather singular that the generality of cutters are in the constant habit of cutting boots at random, that is, without a regular and certain rule; though without some rules they seldpm attempt to cut shoes; but as boots are of more consequence in the trade than shoes, they ought to have certain and fixed laws. In the course of my practice I have seen boots from a great many parts of these kingdoms, and from many parts of the continent of Europe; but no two pairs of them alike. The leading shops in the Metropolis are not regular in their mode of cutting boots; for from one and the same shop you will see various modes of cutting; which is a convincing proof that there is no regular system or order. Here I speak from what I have seen; 1 do not pretend 1o say that none have taken into consideration the real form and movements of the foot and leg, and have applied a corresponding mode of cutting to answer the end; but, as I have said before, I have seen none. In the first place, it will be proper to shew the method how to take the measure of the foot and leg. We will suppose for a jockey, or top boot. .Take the length of the foot as in fig. 5, from C to I, with the size-stick, same as directed in the shoe; then with a graduated piece of parchment take the width round the foot at E, at F, and H; then the width of the heel at c c, then .the pitch or the first rise of the calf at I), and the width round the leg at D, likewise the height of the middle of the calf at B and its width, then the length at a a and the width round the leg at a. If Wellington or Austrian half boots, you must take the length' to B, or a little above, and width at that height. By making use of a graduated strip of parchment, you can en...

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